Interior Improvements to a Corribee Mk 1

Pictures are at the end of this document)

The writer is the owner of a Mark I bilge keel Corribee. The remark in the “Development of the Corribee” that they “are often a bit scruffy” hit the nail on the head, but the remark that they “can be very rewarding” is also very true.

On the off-chance that someone might find what I have done to “Windsong” of some interest, I am giving some details with photos. Anyone wanting more facts can contact me, and I will give any further information that I can.

The boat had been flock sprayed inside and while it stopped any condensation it had become, over the years, very faded and stained and seemed to resist all attempts to clean it. It was therefore necessary to hide as much as possible. For a start curtains were fitted to all the windows which was a help.

Next it was decided to panel the cabin roof, also each side of the hatch and to add shelves at these points. The materials used was 2.5mm sapele mahogany and while it undoubtedly darkened the cabin a little, I felt that the rich striped effect improved the appearance of the boat immensely. (See photo 1) The method employed was to make templates of light cardboard and then cut out the veneer. Half inch self-tapping screws driven in to the short battens glassed into the roof held the panels in position. Forward of the main keyhole bulkhead two panels sufficed but in the after section I made three. I finished off the job by gluing mahogany veneer strips over the joints. With hindsight I should have only glued one side of the strips and it would then have been quite easy to remove a panel at a later date had I had necessity to do so. Finally it was varnished.

The echo sounder was fitted to the main bulkhead over the chart table when I took delivery of the boat, but since I sail on a lake and nearly always solo the chart table was stored ashore and the echo sounder transferred to a hinged bracket at the hatch. (See Photos 1 and 2). It is held in position both open and closed with plastic spring clips. Unfortunately the length is different when open and closed and two pieces of plastic angle were used to enable the length to be altered.

Rather than fit leeboards to the forward berths, I decided I would like to have a double berth, as two sleeping bags zipped together are much warmer than two separate bags. The mast compression tube was the problem. On this particular boat the tube had a circular flange on the bottom which was screwed to the forward floor board of the cabin sole. This meant that the floor board could not be lifted. There was even a gap between the floor board and the moulded bearer on the hull. This must have had a nice springy effect when hard on the wind in a blow! What I did was to unscrew the tube from the floor board. I could then remove the floor board and drill a hole where the flange had sat, to enable the tube to go through. The flange was then screwed to the bearer on the hull and the tube cut about 3/4” above the floor board. A length of copper pipe was found that was a tight fit inside the compression tube, and cut so that when sitting on the flange at the bottom of the tube, it was clear about 1” above where the tube had been cut. This centred the remainder of the tube on its base. The top of the tube was threaded and a coupling screwed down. When the compression tube was attached to its base the coupling at the top was screwed up and went over the centring dowelling attached to the inside of the cabin roof. I now had a removable compression tube. The next job was to remove the pieces of ply screwed to the front of each forward berth to secure the cushions and cut a lot of it away just leaving two pieces at each side to hold the berth cushions in position. (See photo 3)

Since the floor board edges were shaped to fit the shape of the hull, I turned the floor board upside down and cut away two lengths on each side to correspond with the cushion positioners. The original ply had been cut so that, when the inverted floor board was placed in it, it was level with the berths. (see photo 4). A short length of timber was bolted to the moulding to bear the forward end of the infill (see photo 3) and a headboard with a suitable piece of timber screwed to it sits across the ends of the berths and takes the weight of the after end. This set up can be seen in photo 5. The headboard leans against the keyhole bulkhead and the bunk cushions keep it in position. Three inch foam was purchased for the infill and divided lengthways giving two cushions which by day sit on the bunk cushions under the shelves, thus hiding more of the shabby flock and taking up no cabin space (see photos 3 & 4)

Eating arrangements were the next thing to be scrutinised. A report in Yachting Monthly 1968 stated that the galley to port had “a formica covered top which removes and fixes across the boat to provide a table or working surface for the cook”. No such “goodie” existed on Windsong, so a formica top was acquired from an old washing machine which, cut to size, now sits on top of the cooker when under way. When the cooker is to be used the top is put on top of the heads locker to starboard where it fits perfectly.

When everything (Cutlery, crockery, pots and pans) have been taken from the locker beneath the cooker and placed on this top, it is then fitted between the galley and the heads locker where it also fits. There is however a slight difference in height, so an extra piece of wood has to be screwed to the bottom of the formica to level it up. (See photo 5) I only use this as a work top. The top step in to the cabin covers the sink and slides to give access. The underside of the tread I have covered in formica and since the bottom step lifts out , I simply remove it, and, pulling out the top step, turn it upside down and use it as a table when eating and a draining board when washing up. However with a crew aboard I thought I needed something more, so made a folding table. (Photo 6) This is simply 3/8” marine ply cut as shown. The legs are all hinged. With the legs folded it is stowed under the foredeck on two pieces of light cordage. (Photos 4 & 5).

The bottom ½” of the aft leg is rounded and fits in to a finger hole in the floor board, and a longish length of wood is screwed sideways to the bottom to help stabilise the table. There is quite a long slot cut in the forward end of the table which is inserted round the mast compression tube. On the tube itself there is a fitting which consists of a hose clip that can be obtained in a garden centre which can be opened and closed manually, and which clamps two aluminium brackets, one fore and one aft, to the tube. Screwed to these brackets is a piece of mahogany on which the table rests.

Under this is another similar hose clip holding two angled aluminium brackets to take two hinged folding legs the purpose of which is to stop the table from wobbling sideways. The table in position and the method of folding the legs can be seen in photos 6 & 7. The two hose clips, stowed at the top of the compression tube, can be seen in photos 7 and 9.

Next I added an open shelf at each side from the existing shelves right up to the chain locker, making them quite wide, as the space under the foredeck is not used for anything.

Finally I decided that it would be a distinct advantage to be able to pump the water from my water carrier to the sink. A large cork was obtained and a hole drilled in it to allow the plastic water piping to be inserted (See photo 9). When not in use the tubing is stowed in three loops of light webbing (Photo 6). The tubing runs along the inside of the lockers and is attached to a little whale foot pump, and then up to the faucet at the sink which stows neatly when not in use (see photos 2 and 8). When sitting on the starboard side just inside the hatch one can pump away without difficulty.

The “wall to wall” carpeting fitted for this season (nylon rubber backed) looks and feels good, but I have a sneaking suspicion that the bare floor boards with their lifting holes allow at least some ventilation of the bilges, which the carpet effectively cuts off. I am not sure if it will be left in position, however we will see as the season progresses.

On a different tack altogether, does anyone know anything about my boat, sail number 97? I think her previous home port, prior to coming to Ireland, was somewhere in Wales. She was called Rivendell when I got her, and she looked as though she had been dismasted at some time, as the mast was welded in the general area of the tabernacle.She was a brick red colour when she arrived here. Any information would be appreciated.

Picture 1	Picture 2
Picture 3	Picture 4
Picture 5	Picture 6
Picture 7	Picture 8
Picture 9